Monday, July 2, 2012

Czech Republic

 After a few days in Wroclaw I threw my Zloty into my (ever-expanding with spare change) wallet and withdrew Czech Crowns. Everyone says that Prague is "so cheap!" but I'm wondering if those people are just used to ridiculously high prices in Western Europe and Scandinavia. I found it to be comparable to the U.S., but with more expensive food. I ended up spending a lot more money in the country than I had expected - about double what I initially withdrew.

The thing that surprised me most about Prague was the weather. I was not expecting it to be nearly as hot and humid as it was. In fact, it was so gross and I was sweating so much that I ruined a shirt because I got my hot pink purse wet and the dye bled all over. Though I suppose I shouldn't be complaining, because it's better than the cold and rain I found in Helsinki.






As expected, the city was beautiful. There was about the right amount to do for three full days, and then I was able to take two day trips. The first day I concentrated on the west side of town - Old Town, main square, and Jewish Quarter (and getting lost). Day two I headed across the St. Charles Bridge and up to the castle complex on the top of the hill (this took me almost the entire day). Day three was more wandering and getting lost, and the rest of the east side of the bridge.




 Old Jewish cemetary.

 Entering the main square (with the dancing beer man).

 View from the St. Charles Bridge.

 Treats.

 Inside St. Vitus Cathedral.

At Lennon Wall.

My first day trip was to Kutna Hora, home of the famous Ossuary. It was one of the more difficult side trips I had to take (again, everyone said "tourist trail!" but I was the only one on my bus...) and started with me getting a bit lost (surprise, surprise). Finally though, I found the Bone Church. They estimate that it's decorated with the bones of about 40,000 people, most of whom died in the 14th-15th century due to war and plagues. After that I found a bus to the Old Town, where I found all of the tourists I had heard so much about and the beautiful St. Barbara's cathedral.

 At the entrance.

 One of five massive structures.

 The centerpiece - the chandelier.

 Small street in Old Town. Possible new nickname?

 Walking up to St. Barbara's is incredibly impressive.


View of the town from St. Barbara's.

My final day I had planned to go way outside of town, but I was tired, so instead I chose the closer town of Karlstejn. According to the books, it's a lovely castle, but it's been overexploited by tourism. While it is definitely set up for tourists, it really wasn't as terrible as I was expecting. The castle was nice (if a bit pricey) and I got a workout in climbing the hill to the top in the heat.

 Arriving in Karlstejn.

 First view of the castle.

 Nearing the top, and the sun is really coming out now.

 View from the top.

Wroclaw

From Lithuania I took the overnight bus to Warsaw (always a favorite thing to do - I would actually rather spend an entire day on buses and go straight to the hostel to sleep). Arriving in Warsaw at six in the morning after a Euro game was an interesting experience. Still drunk revelers, police everywhere. I tried to find an open restaurant to wait until my next transportation transfer, but nothing was open so I went ahead to the other bus station, found a McDonald's there and wasted a few hours eating breakfast and using the free wi-fi.

I was only in Wroclaw (vrots-waff) for a few days, but it was probably my favorite city of the trip. It's a lovely, small city, easy to get around, beautiful architecture, cheap, and filled with small statues of gnomes. I also found a restaurant with amazing bean/mushroom enchiladas that I returned to a few times. Wroclaw had been the site of some of the round-robin Euro matches, so the main square had been set up for watching the games, so I took advantage of the proximity to the hostel and watched a few of the games there.


Strange art - headless bird-men hovering over nests in the trees.

Old town/cathedrals.

Euro Fanzone at night.

One (of many) small gnome statues.

Main square with a little creative photography (cutting out all of the soccer stuff).

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Lithuania

Lithuania was the final stop on what I found to be the typical tourist trail of the Baltic States. I spent most of my time in the capital, Vilnius. I found that it was quite a bit larger than the other capitals, and the old town was different as well - it was a lot more than just tourist sites, but filled with locals. Granted this wasn't always a good thing, as I was almost hit by a car and was kind of hit (nicked) by a bicycle. There was just less patience for wandering tourists and less English overall, but it was great to see a different side of the city.

My favorite day was my last in the city. I wandered for hours (which is what I did most days, but I didn't get nearly as lost), had two restaurant meals (to use up my last Litas), climbed a tower for a panoramic view of the city, and visited the KGB/Genocide museum (one of the most interesting and sobering places I've been so far).

Castle (which I later climbed). 

Stebuklas tile on the main square, the endpoint of a human chain that went across the Baltics showing unity in wanting their independence. 

Constitution of a "republic" of artists. 

View of the city.


I made one day trip to Trakai castle, which is supposed to be one of the gems of the country. The castle has been very well restored and has a very interesting museum.

 The castle is situated around a bunch of lakes, and for a minute I thought I was back home.


Monday, June 18, 2012

Latvia

In many ways, Latvia is very similar to Estonia. Riga has a beautiful old town, which is quite different from Tallinn. It's larger, and not quite as immediately intense, but more subtle and spread out. The new town was also a pleasant surprise. A lot of parks, and some great architecture. There's also a huge market that fills five old WW1 zeppelin hangars as well as the entire surrounding area.






I took one side trip within the country to Sigulda, where there are a number of castles and caves (and a bobsled track). Most of the castles have been restored within the last few decades (and not completely accurately), but it was a nice trip. We crossed the valley on the only cable car in the Baltics, and walked a LOT, but it was a beautiful day.







I also got a sneak peek into Lithuania when I crossed the border to see the Hill of Crosses. Normally the trip is a bit complicated (two buses followed by a 2 km walk), but we met a nice Australian couple who let us go with them in their taxi. The hill itself is filled with countless crosses- well not just the hill, but the surrounding area as well. It's quite odd to see it out in the middle of nowhere, but it was beautiful. We even got to see a part of a pilgrimage to the site.



 

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Estonia

Estonia (and the Baltic states in general) have always been a big question mark on my mental map of the world, so I had no idea what to expect. In fact, I was very pleasantly surprised.

The old town of Tallinn is as a fellow traveler described "intensely beautiful." Every step you take you want to take another picture because everything is so incredible. It can be a bit like a touristy, Disney-fied experience though, filled with parties and tourist traps. I was also able to also get outside of the old town to Kadriog park and to the "other side of the tracks" to see the Russian part of town.




The Disney/touristic element 


 Russian market

At Kadriog, now an art museum

After that I took the train to Tartu, a university town to the south. When I arrived it was beautiful - full of parks and statues - so I decided to just enjoy walking around before watching the first Spanish Euro game. The next day, when I went out to take pictures, ended up being rainy for the entire day. A shame, because the city really is pretty.

The first day 

Statue of kissing students in front of Town Hall 


Finland


Finland was an interesting introduction to northern Europe. Much of the time that I was there was chilly and raining, but I was able to get out and see a few things in between.

In Helsinki, I stayed a ways outside of the city center (that's what you get when you're on a budget) so there was a lot of walking. My strongest memory will probably be the sleeping situation itself. I was in a dorm with 26 beds, and I was the lucky one to get bed "L" which put me in the aisle next to the door and a window. I hadn't even thought before about how far north I was, and didn't even consider that it would be light for twenty hours a day. Needless to say, it was a rough few nights of sleep.

However, the city itself was quite nice. The harbor and churches were beautiful, and there were a lot of parks.


 Sibelius monument

Suomenlinna fortress

I made two side-trips to clnearby cities: Turku and Porvoo. Turku is known as a medieval city, complete with castle. My experience wasn't the greatest, having to pay an exorbitant amount for the (albeit nice) train ride and getting horribly lost looking for the castle.



Porvoo was a nice trip. The town is much smaller and has a nice old town to wander around in.



Thursday, May 31, 2012

On the road again...

Tomorrow I leave on a new adventure - two and a half months in northern Europe! My original plan was to be flexible and go without a plan, but after checking out hostel options at my starting point I realized it might be a good idea to plan ahead a bit more.

Here's the itinerary for the trip :


FINLAND
June 2-7 – Helsinki

ESTONIA
June 7-10 – Tallinn
June 10-12 – Parnu

LATVIA
June 12-17 – Riga

LITHUANIA
June 17-22 – Vilnius

POLAND
June 22-25 – Wroclaw

CZECH REPUBLIC
June 25-29 – Prague
June 29-July 1 – Cesky Krumlov

SLOVAKIA
July 1-5 – Bratislava

POLAND
July 5-10 – Krakow
July 10-13 – Warsaw


NORWAY
July 13-15 – Stavanger
July 15-18 – Bergen
July 18-20 – Laerdal
July 20-22 – Oslo

SWEDEN
July 22-25 – Stockholm

DENMARK
July 25-30 – Copenhagen


GERMANY
July 30-August ? - Berlin
Munich

FRANCE
August ?-17 - Paris


It's definitely going to be a lot of stops and not as much time as I would like to spend in each place, but it should be a different experience!